To continue our way north we had to go through a narrow passage between two long stretches of land. That channel provides very little room for the whole lot of water on either side that wants to perpetually follow the tide. The consequence is “vicious currents” of “monumental proportions” that scare cruisers, especially first-timers.
So, what’s the name of that cut? You guessed, it’s called Current Cut. And the name of the island south of the cut (the one on the north being actually Eleuthera)? Yup, Current Island indeed. And the rock you would hit if you don’t turn on time? Correct, that’s Current Rock. And the nearby town? Right again, that’s no other than The Current. And what island is The Current on? Nope, you didn’t guess this time, sorry. The Current is not on Current Island, but on the Eleuthera side of Current Cut. I guess it was founded by the same bright guys who founded Kansas City in Missouri.
They say the current at Current Cut can exceed ten knots. That’s about two knots more than the top motoring speed of Ñandú. So, yeah, fighting a strong opposing current is a lost battle. A strong favoring current may seem like a good deal, but it’s not. You need some speed over the water for the rudders to be effective, and going twelve-plus knots when you have to avoid rocks might also lead to a lost battle. Only you’d lose in a more spectacular way than with an opposing current. In fact, if I had to go with such a strong favorable current I’d probably motor against the current in order to reduce the speed over ground (read “speed over the rocks”). What I’m not sure is whether I’d do it facing forward and motoring in reverse, or facing backwards and motoring forward.
People will of course tell you to pass with slack water, but that’s quite a piece of unhelpful advice. Not so much because it’s obvious, but because there’s no reliable way to know when the current goes slack. It’s supposed to be about two hours after high or low tide… except when it’s not, because the wind strength and direction can have a significant effect. And even if we knew exactly when slack was, we were more than 30 nautical miles away. With our wildly variable sailing speed, it could have taken us anywhere between four and eight hours to get there; no easy way to time the arrival anyway. A much simpler and equally sound advice would be “just go there and see what happens”. Even better if there’s someone ahead of you.
As it happened, we reached Current Cut two hours after low tide, and faced an already increasing but manageable opposing current of two knots. There was no other boat doing the Cut ahead of us, though. Too bad, because I was really looking forward to ask for “The Current’s current current” on the radio.
All that stress anticipating an epic battle left us exhausted, even if the battle didn’t occur. We swiftly anchored right after the crossing and the next morning we beached the dinghy and strolled around The Current. It turned out to be a lovely and slow-paced town.
Was there any human life there? Everything’s boarded up. Does Current’s public library have internet access???
They were all swept up by the current! No, not really. Yes, we did see human life, mostly waiting in line to vote for the general elections. Friendly as usual.
A few houses appeared to be for sale, but no, not everything is boarded up. The library does have internet access.
Hmmm… People LOVE to brag about how dangerous their currents are… So much more than anywhere else. Yet certainly there are dangerous situations to study, and then roll the dice… An old, experienced sailor told me, “Always remember somewhere inside every channel with a strong current, there are opposing currents making it possible. The trick is reading the water and finding favorable currents.” I’m not an experienced salt water sailor, but attest this applies to life in general.
Have you decided where to view the eclipse?
I like how that can apply to life in general. However, physics has it that it doesn’t really apply to every channel.
i love the anticipation . . . and resolution in your missives. glad you made it through uneventfully. we’ve been watching the match races for the america’s cup in bermuda on tv and are amazed at the speeds those boats can achieve (40 knots on foils), so it was funny to see the the current could out pace your nandu by 2 knots. i love your stories. keep ’em coming!
Thanks Kim. Now I am jealous! I wish I could watch the races. I was just reading the rules and it seems that tomorrow’s race between NZL and USA may be crucial. My understanding is that whoever wins that race will start with one point in the finals (assuming NZL makes it to the finals). Go New Zealand!
Juan (thinking of adding foils to Ñandú 😉 )