Ocracoke: Ponies, Pirates and Tacos

The Outer Islands must be spectacular, we said to each other. We couldn’t visit them last year as our goal was to leave the frost of winter behind the Ñandú’s stern. This time with good weather, warm temperatures and time in our pockets we chose to visit Ocracoke Island. Many reasons went into this decision. It was highly recommended by fellow cruisers (always a wise source), it has wild ponies (can’t go wrong with ponies), and it was Blackbeard’s favorite spot (can’t go wrong with pirates).

To reach this windswept paradise we had to play chicken with a ferry in the narrow entrance channel. Past the channel is Silver Lake, a safe harbor conveniently surrounded by the village of Ocracoke. It wasn’t such an easy place to anchor after all. It was crowded with a plethora of boats and the best spots were taken. We had to settle for the leftovers. On our first try, the hook didn’t bite and we started dragging. The second try was fine except that we ended up a bit too close to a dock. The next morning the captain of the historic Wilma Lee asked us politely if we could reanchor farther away. He needed a sort of runaway to enter and exit the dock. We didn’t want to be part of history under 75 foot of wooden boat, so we moved again.

When we made it to land we found a bike rental place that also specialized in producing the most amazing “tacos in a bag“, a first for us.

We planned a biking expedition for the next day to find the famous wild ponies. We imagined the little horses running free on the beach like in a commercial. Early next morning we followed the main—and only—highway. Seven miles later we found the ponies. Sort of. The hard-to-find free and wild ponies of our imagination were neither so free nor so wild. And impossible to miss. They are kept for their own safety in big pens with lovely accommodations and plenty of food. I only glimpsed from the distance a cute foal getting excited at the prospect of fresh grass that a ranger was bringing.

When we turned around we recalled that the taco chef/bike rental owner warned us that the wind could make it hard to pedal back to the village. No wonder it was such an easy ride thus far. As self-proclaimed sailors we should have known better. Juan offered to go first and cut the wind for me. I preferred not to ask if it was an act of chivalry or sheer impatience with my frequent stops to breathe. We made it back and recovered with delicious fish tacos on the road.

Ocracoke was a favorite playground for Blackbeard, also known as Edward Teach. Legend says it was also the place of his final defeat. The pirate vibe is all around town. We found Blackbeard’s lodge, Blackbeard’s jamboree, Teach’s Hole, Blackbeard museum, and lots of fake pirate paraphernalia. I am just happy that the pirate is now more a marketing fixture than a real man. I don’t think Ñandú would have presented a big challenge to a guy who braided his long beard and put lighted fuses under his hat to terrorize his enemies.