From Barbuda we backtracked to Antigua with the intention of just doing the customs and immigration paperwork to check out of the country, and continue south to Guadeloupe. The weather had other ideas. The ‘bomb cyclone’ that pummeled the U.S. East Coast during the first days of March generated waves that were underway to make the Guadeloupe anchorages we had in mind quite dangerous. We decided to spend an extra week taking refuge in three different anchorages in Antigua’s southeast coast.
Half a year ago we knew absolutely nothing about Antigua and Barbuda. Today, the Jolly Harbour mechanic calls us “Antiguans”. Serendipitously, by virtue of hurricanes and busted engines, the country became our third homeland (after Chile and the U.S. in terms of time spent). We will keep her in our hearts.
Carlisle Bay
Carlisle Bay is a small anchorage and was very crowded when we got there, at sunset. The best place we found to anchor was uncomfortably close to the bow of a huge motoryacht, one of those with several crew who keep the ship shiny and install inflatable waterslides and serve lunch on the beach for the owner and their guests. I think we were closer to them than their length. They didn’t seem to mind, which is understandable, given that any close encounter would have resulted in minor scratches to them and major damage to us. I trusted the wind wouldn’t blow from the south that night: they remained in place and it all went fine.
Green Island in Nonsuch Bay
Nonsuch Bay is a large and beautiful anchorage protected by a coral reef. To enter you have to pass a shoal that gets dangerous in heavy seas. Well, the seas where not even close to heavy when we got to the entrance. We were leisurely dropping the main sail when two huge and steep waves came out of nowhere. One after the other, the crests—as high as our roof—started to break as they got closer, but since the terrain underneath us was quite flat, they luckily didn’t break any further. I also had some time to turn and face them diagonally, so other than a physical shake and an emotional shock, we have no permanent damage to report. We remained anchored inside for days to make sure the sea was absolutely flat before leaving. Dozens of other boats obliviously came and went in the meantime, and apparently no one saw the monsters we did.
Falmouth Harbour
We came back to civilization to clear customs in bustling Falmouth Harbour, home of megayachts and tall ships.
as always, an exquisite peak into the mariner’s life.
yes, she’s a rainbow.
love to you both.
She comes in colors everywhere 😉
Love to you too, dear friend
Hermoso relato de la vida en aguas casi tranquilas, pero con una aura de paz. Buen viaje
Gracias Camila!