In accordance with the tradition of naming our exploration vessels after cute-but-not-particularly-graceful flightless animals that inhabit the southern hemisphere and whose Spanish name start with Ñ, we have chosen the name Ñu to christen our new adventure facilitator. For those of you who do not speak the Cervantes language, ñu is wildebeest or gnu in English. Here’s the first chapter of her life: a mostly graphic essay about the long trip back to California after picking her up in Montana.
She likes it hot too
Things started the usual way: with a mechanical breakdown. Yup, the cooling system. Déjà vu all over again: the piece that holds the pulley that drives the radiator fan broke. Mercedes’ legendary reliability just didn’t stand up to my cooling system bracket karma. I’d like to know what sins I committed in previous lives that led to being flogged with such a specific punishment. On a second thought… nah, I don’t want to know. [If you are new to this blog, write “bracket” in the search box to the right.]
Luckily, the warranty covers towing no matter where we are. We just had to call Mercedes’ roadside assistance. Well, not so easy folks! Apparently the so-called roadside assistance does not understand the ‘roadside’ part and assumes you are calling from home… Because “the system wants an address; you have to give me an address”. Lady, I don’t know the address and I barely have one bar of cell signal and no internet. I don’t know the address, but I am 5 miles south of the north entrance to Yellowstone, the most popular national park in the U.S. [okay, second most popular]. That’s surely enough to find me. Nope, need an address. How about, Mammoth Hot Springs Campground—a Google search in the beautiful computer you have in front of you will easily tell you where that is. Nope, the system wants an address. How about my lat-long GPS coordinates? That’s exactly, precisely, unequivocally, unambiguously where we are, with a 10-meter precision. Nope, this 21st-century program does not understand such a medieval system of coordinates. I need an address. And don’t forget the zip code. Lady, I don’t even know what state I’m in, and you want a zip code? [No I’m not that clueless, but in this particular situation I wasn’t really sure we were in Montana or Wyoming, as the park straddles the state line].
At some point she finally realized that I had no way of coming up with an address, and somehow figured out how to move on. But then it was time to face the towing truck bureaucracy. After all the different ways I told the road assistance lady exactly where we were, the truck driver called to ask… you guessed, where the fuck we were. Not only that, he also wanted a picture of the van. I inquired why. He said he needed to know how tall it was in order to decide what truck to bring. I told him the van was exactly 9 feet and 4 inches high. “That’s very useful information”, he said. “But I still need a picture.”
And then came the pearl that showed that roadside assistance does not understand the ‘assistance’ part either. They offered to take only one of us in the truck cabin with the driver, while the other could get an Uber. Dude, even if there was a way to call an Uber when you have no internet, there’s no way we’re going to spend 90 minutes with strangers in an enclosed environment in the middle of a pandemic; I don’t care what the regulations say—we’re going inside the van, period. We actually had a blast riding at an even higher vantage point than usual to the repair shop.
Montana and Wyoming
It was cold. The thermostat became my best friend when we had 5 days in a row with the daily high not getting above 35°F (2°C).
Utah
Still cold for a tropics lover, but way better than Montana.
Canyonlands National Park — Island in the Sky
To our surprise, it was high season in Southeast Utah—winter is too cold and summer too hot.
Arches National Park
It’s called arches for a reason.
Canyonlands National Park — The Needles
Going South
Arizona
Grand Canyon
Our first day in Grand Canyon National Park was somewhat disappointing: it was hazy, and as we got closer to Grand Canyon Village it got more and more crowded, and less and less of a zen-like experience. We pondered leaving for good, but when we checked that the forecast called for a snowy night we decided to camp right outside the park, set the alarm for 5:15am, and get some sleep before driving back to the park. At first light, as the weather started to clear, breakfast in the heated van with a spectacular view and no-one around was a spectacular reward.
Sedona Area
Every page about Sedona on the web seems to have this description: “Sedona is an Arizona desert town near Flagstaff that’s surrounded by red-rock buttes, steep canyon walls and pine forests. It’s noted for its mild climate and vibrant arts community.” So there you go. I can be a master of copy-pasting too. On our way west we unintentionally discovered Jerome, a very interesting, funky, and “wickedest town in the west”. The last picture below, Burro Creek is not really near Sedona, but I couldn’t fit it in any other section.
California
Mojave Desert
The Mojave was… profound. There’s some mysterious magic in that tough landscape that touches your soul and makes you travel inwards. But more personally, the Mojave was the place where Kathy undertook a vision quest a few years ago, fastening in solitary for four days. It was a transformational experience for her, and marked an inflection point in our relationship as well. For me, it was the first time there, and I am immensely grateful that she let me into her space with an open heart full of joy and desire to share.
Ah you found the House on Fire. Chris and I went there in spring of 2019. I think you did not head south from Natural Bridges to the Goose Necks, correct? That would drop you down into the Valley of the Gods and a town called Mexican Hat. The pics are amazing. Mohave looks magical, and I love what you two did in photo 89
Thank you lovely! Yes, we did head straight south from natural bridges, on Hwy 261, and through Mexican Hat. The “Trail of the Ancients” pic is right before Valley of the Gods (which we passed by without visiting).
Oh wonderful!! I thought one of the pictures you took looked like you were at the Goosenecks overlook but I wasn’t sure. I’m so glad you and Kat got to see that.
Welcome N(yay)u!
Juan, please check the terrestrial alternator bracket before travels.
🙂 Bob
Well, the good thing is that if it breaks it’s no longer a potentially life-or-death situation.
Love reading about your adventures. We just sold The Norm last week. Not sure what are plans are.
Thank you Rhonda! We’d been wondering about you. I hope it was one of the two proverbial happiest day in the life of a boat owner. May I suggest a campervan for you?