Celebrating the life of Oliver

It is with a heavy heart that we announce that the world-famous boat cat Oliver has passed away. Instead of grieving, we want to honor him by celebrating his life, always full of joy and hedonistic pleasures (well, except during those rough passages that the poor guy had to endure).

Oliver at six weeks old

We found Oliver in a State Park by the Sacramento River. I took the car one morning to drive from our campsite to a nearby windsurfing spot, while Kathy and the kids stayed in the campground. I almost run over a diminutive, helpless black cat and I said to myself, “uh-oh, I hope they don’t see it.” When I came back they were petting and feeding the cat who’d soon be known as Oliver. The girls obviously wanted to adopt him, so we made a deal: if he was still with us by the end of the following day we’d bring him home. The next day we all went swimming and when we came back I was relieved not to see the cat, thinking he’d likely reunited with his mother. But then someone noticed a lump under the tent floor, and that lump became part of the family. Twelve years later his kidneys gave up. The vet said a month ago that according to the blood test, Oliver shouldn’t have been alive. But no one notified him, so he kept climbing trees and bringing live mice to our bed in the middle of the night, happy to be back to his homeland. Until he could no more.

Oliver had many friends

I’m not sure Oliver was ever aware that he was a cat. His feline instincts did show up from time to time, but he developed an unusual personality for a cat. For instance, the way he followed us around the house was a lot more dog-like, although he did attempt to disguise it. If we went out to do some gardening in the front yard, he’d soon show up there. If we then moved to the back yard, he would later surreptitiously appear there, not really looking at us, but very aware of us. He seemed to say “I’m not following you, ok? It just happens that I want to be right here, right now”.

Yoga cat. Oliver always wanted to be where the action was. The closer, the better.

His canine persona also turned up when Kathy and I rowed back to Ñandú at the end of a day out. He’d come out to the deck to welcome us, almost wagging his tail in a mixture of relief and happiness. The sentiments quickly turned into recrimination, though: “you are late for dinner!” He meant, of course, his dinner.

He loved playing hide-and-seek. He wasn’t very good at it, though.

Speaking of food, Oliver wouldn’t accept anything that wasn’t packaged and clearly labeled as cat food. He showed absolute disdain for anything we ate, which was quite convenient, actually, since we never had to protect our food from him. Being the sophisticated cat he was, he wouldn’t eat his meals straight. Noooo, that would have been too ignoble. He had to “prepare” his meals. Using his paw as a spoon he’d add water from the water bowl, stir, and only then proceed to enjoy his gourmet meal.

A well-traveled adventurer, he visited 13 states and 8 countries

Oliver always was fond of water, and not only as a food ingredient. At home he would patiently wait inside the bath tub until someone noticed and opened the faucet to a trickle of water that he’d use to wash himself. As a boat cat in the heat of the tropics he demanded proper showers. He would have happily taken five a day, but with the scarcity of fresh water we had to restrict him to the same standards as the human crew: at most one shower a day.

Our cat was very clear about rights, but fuzzy about obligations. As a natural predator, he could have easily contributed his share to the community by keeping mice out of the house. Instead he brought them in. And when presented with the one chance to capture one, he’d just alternately look at the scared rodent and at me, puzzled and annoyed, as if asking “You woke me up for this? What do you expect me to do?”

Oliver has now joined mother earth buried in his favorite kind of place: a grassy spot in is homeland, California (far enough from his least favorite place, the ocean). Rest in peace, Oliver. You will be sorely missed.

Grenada: last stop for the season

The island of Grenada is as far south as we intended to go before battening down and cowardly deserting Ñandú for the hurricane season. Only 75 miles from South America, this is far enough south to be considered outside the hurricane belt, but that doesn’t mean Grenada is entirely free of risk: Hurricane Ivan caused extensive damage in 2004.

Leaving the boat to its own resources for several month meant many days of you-know-what: boat work! Yay! Cleaning, removing all sails, stowing the dinghy inside the cockpit, getting rid of everything that could attract insects, and a long list of miscellaneous tasks left us with no time to explore this beautiful island, except for half a day around the capital, St. George’s. We expect to remedy that when we come back.

St. George’s colorful homes and Georgian architecture

Grenada is know as the Spice Island. It is the second largest exporter of nutmeg (after Indonesia), but it grows and exports a variety of other spices as well. Grenada’s history starts with the usual suspects: Arawak and Caribs as first inhabitants, and then Spaniards claiming the island but letting the French and English fight for it. Independence came in 1974, and things got interesting five years later, with a communist revolution led by Maurice Bishop that overthrew an oppressive government. With strong ties to Cuba, Bishop improved medical care and education, but the lack of political freedom led to power struggles. 1983 saw more coups; Bishop arrested, freed by a mob, recaptured and executed; and a U.S.-led military invasion.

18th century Fort George

Human right violations and political assassinations during that turbulent period left wounds that polarized the public—in a way all too familiar to us, Chileans. In 2000 a high school research project about the fact that Bishop’s body was never found, caught the attention of the Miami Herald and ultimately led to the formation of a Commission for Truth and Reconciliation. Today it seems that Grenadians have found their truth and peace, and enjoy political and economic stability.

Rainbow behind Port Louis Marina
Ñandú out—done for the season
Sea of masts
Last supper
California-bound, but this is not the Sierra. It’s Bahamas’ ocean floor. We miss Bahamas!

You cannot enjoy the art if you have no balls

“Let’s go! Let’go! Let’s go!” That was Juan’s battle cry. “They are leaving!”

That was followed by a mad race to weigh anchor and push Ñandú as fast as she would go. The goal: catch one of the precious mooring buoys close to the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park. We had kept a sharp eye on them with the binoculars after being sorely disappointed to find all the buoys taken.  Following some crazy maneuvering and a show of amazing seamanship skills we were the proud renters of a white ball.  We saw a competitor arrive a few minutes too late. We celebrated with a beer and a smug face.

After catching our breath we geared up and jumped into the water. It was colder than we expected and we were farther from the sculptures than we thought.

Praying woman

If you have been a faithful follower you will remember (or maybe not, depending on your age) The Musician, an underwater sculpture by Jason deCaires Taylor that left us in awe more than a year ago in The Bahamas. Well, in Grenada there are more than sixty pieces, most of them by him.

They are eerie, delightful, spooky and hard to find. I don’t think we saw them all. They are hidden on the sides of rocks, on serpentine gullies and sun-dappled sand patches. I’ll let the images speak for themselves.

Vicissitude, 2006 . It’s a ring of 26 life-size cement children holding hands and facing outwards.

Amerindian art, one of 14 newer works added to the park. Made by local artist Troy Lewis.

The selfie girl

It was a long way back to Ñandú. I was distrustful of the low water visibility and kept imagining a lovely aquatic predator touching my legs with the soundtrack of Jaws in the background. It was funny predator Juan keeping the journey interesting.

The Grenadian Grenadines

Continuing our journey down The Grenadines we found ourselves in another country, Grenada. As I mentioned in a previous post, The Grenadines is a chain of small islands lying between the larger islands of St. Vincent and Grenada. Of the nine inhabited islands in the chain, the northern seven are part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, while the southern two belong to Grenada.

Carriacou

Hazy day

Carriacou is the largest of the Grenadines islands, and it’s home to 8,000 people. It is known as “the island with a hundred rum shops and one gasoline station”, and also as the “friendliest, healthiest and safest island in the Caribbean”. I didn’t count the rum shops and I don’t feel entitled to use superlatives, but we did like Carriacou and its people a whole lot.

Hillsborough anchorage
Hillsborough
Windward side of the island
Old house in the village of Windward
Boat building tradition, brought by Scottish migrants, still alive. This is going to be a cargo boat.
Beautiful trail to Turtle Beach
Wreck on the reef

We anchored first in Hillsborough where we did the customs and immigration paperwork, and took a taxi to the village of Windward, on the other side of Carriacou. Then we moved to the small, secluded, isolated and beautiful Anse La Roche, a beach where we enjoyed the peace and solitude we had been seeking for a while.

We did have a little incident with the windlass, though. For you landlubbers the windlass is an electric device that helps you pulling the anchor back to the boat. Our anchor rode is a combination of chain and rope. The splice that joins rope to chain was made by yours truly, possibly not in the most professional manner. Well, things got badly stuck in the windlass, because the splice didn’t want to go through, while the chain that came after had no patience and attempted to get ahead of the rope. The result was a tight jam of rope and chain in a place designed to hold only one of them at a time.

I saw no other solution than to get the tools and start disassembling things (after lowering the mainsail, which we had eagerly raised, since I had no idea how long that would take). In the end the job was not that difficult, except that after reassembling everything I ended up with the proverbial extra part in my hands. Oops.

Anse La Roche
Alone at last!
Family outing to the beach

Sandy Island

Sandy Island is a postcard-perfect crescent-shaped strip of sand declared a protected marine area. Turtles come here to lay eggs, supposedly at night, but we saw one laying eggs in full daylight. The park ranger was baffled when we told him.

La Ronde Island

La Ronde Island is a convenient and lovely stop before reaching the island of Grenada, except that it may take a try or two before finding a sandy spot for the anchor to bite. It’s a private island that happens to be for sale, in case you’re interested and can spare a hundred million bucks.

An active submarine volcano that goes by the name of Kick’em Jenny is located two miles to the west. The most recent eruption was in April last year. You are not supposed to sail directly on top of it, because bubbles of volcanic gases can lower the water density to a point where your boat may no longer float. Since you don’t want Kick’em Jenny sinking your boat, there’s an exclusion circle with a radius that depends on the level of activity. Activity detected in March prompted an increase to 5 km, but now it’s back to its usual 1.5 km.